The textiles of the Lao-Tai

The Tai can be traced back to the Yunnan area of China, where they were known as Tai-Kham-Sui-Kadai. In 8 A.D due to expanding Chinese dynasties they started migrating southwards into Laos, Vietnam and Thailand. With them they brought the arts of silk making and weaving. Weavers work on floor standing looms, they use a 2 shaft system with a supplementary heddle. The subgroup known as the Tai Daeng excel in the use of this heddle weaving intricate weft motifs that Laos is becoming so famous for.

Tai means ‘people of’, so the word following usually states which area they are from. Nowadays one will often hear Lao people refer to themselves as Tai-Vieng for example meaning they are from Vientiane. In Huaphanh Province there are many communities of Tai Daeng and Tai Dam, meaning red and black respectively. Their origins can be traced to the Red and Black Rivers in Yunnan that flow southwards towards Vietnam. The weavers in these two groups are renowned for their intricate pattern making using the floor loom. Other subgroups include: Tai Phuan, Tai Lue, Tai Moei, Tai Waat, Tai Nuea and Tai Khang.

The Lao-Tai are traditionally shamanic people with a strong belief in the afterworld. Nowadays Buddhism is becoming more popular and links to animism or shamanism are looked upon as old-fashioned, thus Buddhist beliefs are increasingly used to interpret icons. Usually textiles depict stories of ancestors' spirits travelling to the afterworld, stories of Nagas and their influences on life around them, Siho – the half lion half elephant figure and motifs inspired by nature and daily life. These motifs appear in various forms of the many different sub ethnic groups of the Lao-Tai and using a number of techniques.

What’s the use of a textile?

Textiles are still used in many aspects of daily life from ceremonies to the household. Some of the uses are listed below.

Pha Bieng - Scarf for the upper body (used by Buddhists)

Pha Hom - Blanket

Pha Sabai - Healing cloth

Sihn - Tubular Skirt

Pha Phok Long - Funeral cloth

Pha Kaan - Head cloth

Pha Phii Mon - Shaman Cloth

Pha Mong - Mosquito net decoration

Pha Khan Mon - A love gift handkerchief

Pha Tung - Prayer Flag

Girls weave items as a dowry, giving her groom’s family the items. Traditionally the woman would move to the man’s family house. A weaver in Muong Vien told us that she wove fabric for 40 floor cushions, 12 matresses, 2 blankets, 2 long pillows, and a curtain to separate the newly weds space in the house. This took her 12 months to complete.

Pha khan mon; Girls would also weave small items and give them to boys they sought the attention of. The most common form of love gift was a small handkerchief; in some areas girls wove and made red bags. During the American/Vietnam War, girls wove small pieces and gave them to soldiers for good luck.

Sihn are still worn on a daily basis. The fabric is tailored with a waistband and darts are added. Lao women are very proud to wear these skirts. The patterns vary according to ethnic group, for example: Tai-Lue wear sihn with horizontal stripes, ikat and tapestry.